bagging a 91 dime

my friend is thinking hard about laying out a 91 dime on 20s and was wondering what all would be in store in the front with the firewall and what would need to be relocated? if you know anything that is tricky on laying it out let me know. he is wanting to do 3/8 line with kp components 6 link set up on the rear

Also does anyone know if the brake booster is in the way for 20s? And he is wanting to use the factory controls arms, and I don't no if they camber in real bad or not.

Ive been lookin hard at mine here lately with the front end pulled off and mine is bodydropped so im just going by what i see on it and i would say he would have to do something smaller as far as the break booster like a geo metro or something along those lines. The fuse box may have to be relocated since he will have to tub it for the 20's. Not 100% as far as the heat and ac if it has ac will have to be removed. As far as the controll arms go he will have to run a set of aftermarket tubliar controll arms. S10 wont lay out with stock arms unless you pie cut the lowers and raise the ball joint. This would also help out on if he ever decided to Body it. Im sure someone may know a easer way to move stuff around just some stuff that is done to mine a few things im going to be doing shortley. Also im only going to be running 18's as well.

Hrm, I dont know the older style but for the second gens you need to tub into the firewall (might as well get it ready to body drop in the future).... make a custom blower box for the ac/heat unless you ditch it or go hotrod air or majave (sp?) heater under the dash. The stock arms that I have seen had the uppers pie cut and welded back to releave the stress of the ball joints binding. I dont recall doing anything to the lowers other than "de-humping" (for bigger bags like RE7s) and notching the frame for the tie rods to clear.... Oh and maybe cutting into the area of the frame were the lower arms connect to the frame so they have more room to come up.

Pretty much everything needs to be moved that is sitting on the inner fenders (they have to go) and if you do new trailer fenders you might have some room to remount stuff... not sure though.

Check the s10forums they have a ton of info and a lot of people posting projects and how tos.

85 s10 brake booster in the same dia. as a corvette on and way cheaper its 9in and u can use the stock master cylinder stay away from the geo stuff,art upper and lower arms are always a good idea but u can mod the stock ones but not very safe.91 dont have to much under the hood as far as wiring stuff but you will have to scrap stock blower housing and fiberglass a new one of change it to a hot rod set up like burton said and def set up the frame for Re-7 for good lift.

thanks guys it's useful since this is my first s10 toess with

would the "de humping" be needed for the aftermarket control arms?

i want to do the truck on the kp components setup for the back but he is asking me about the suicide doors 5 link that i know absolutely nothing about. does anyone know anything about the SD kit?

KP is full bolt on kit SD u have to weld still and you cant put tanks under the bed and since your a prospect I can get you a deal Im auth dealer

Sweet... So the tank can't work under the bed? Can the crossmember be raised?

I will post some pics of Casey truck with stock crossmember on 20s

Are you talking about the gas tank or air tank. The gas tank will work with both kits under the bed. And if you do it right you can but an air tanks under the bed with either kit. With the SD kit you have to use one or two short 5 gallons but the fit right between the lift bars. The thing with the KP link is that it doesnt come with the raised gas tank crossmember so you would really need to get that to keep from dragging the tank and the lower bars are to long and leave the factory leaf spring perch in the factory spot and cause you not to be able to lay frame. You would have shorten the lower bars and move the spring perch up to do so. As for the break booster I would recommend getting like a 7". There is a site called Waylayedinc.com that has really good deals on booster and master cylinder kits. And if he is trying to lay out on 20's the he will have to knotch the frame for the tierods. As for the upper and lower control arms, if you use tubular lowers then you don't have to dehump. And if you use stock uppers then you would have to pie cut the uppers, alot of guy's do this but they don't look a nice a tubulars. Also you can keep your heat if you get a stock non A/C blower which is all metal and mod it to work with the 20's. Ive even seen people keep the air too with combining the factory evap. coil housing and and new blower box. That's just some of the stuff you have to do. Not to hard to do.

Thanks.. It's all useful.