Where to find the best deal on a 383 Stroker kit?

Ok, I picked up a car for a fairly decent price earlier in the year. I traded a friend a rear end and an intake for this complete motor that is the core of my build. The motor is a 1992 GM 350 block, 2 pc rear main seal, 4 bolt main block. It is in the machine shop getting bored .30 over right now, and getting the heads cleaned up. I got this motor from him because it had a complete set of Performer RPM heads, Performer intake, 1.5" roller rockers, and a matching (unused) Edelbrock 750 CFM carb. All worth more than the rear end and intake that I gave up for them. What I'm asking for is some help in picking out my 383 Stroker kit. I'm fairly new to building engines, So I would like some help in getting this started on the right foot. On a side note, the guy boring out, and cleaning up my heads and block did one of the motors for the Drag Race high reality show that was on Speed TV. Cool guy, and his name is Guy.

My goals are to have a reliable 450HP 383 stroker.
Compression should be around 11:5:1 area because of aluminum heads.

Parts I have: 350 Block, bored .30 over.
Performer RPM heads: Link here ------> Performer RPM Heads
Performer RPM matching 750 CFM Carb : Link here ------------> Performer Carb
Performer Intake: Link here--------> Performer Intake

I would like to work with what I have already, but I am willing to switch some things around.

What else do I need to get this going in the right direction, and where can I find the best deals on them?

Here is what its all going into eventually. I'm building this for my wife. She is an awesome person and she is in Iraq at the moment. So, I would love to have this done by mid September when she gets back. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys.

1981 Corvette C3

nice car man!.. you dont need to build a 383 to achive 450 hp.. my buddy and i built a very reliable 350 bored .030 over with 500hp.. if you want to do a 383 the cheapest place to get it would most likely be summitracing.com i belive the eagle rotating assembly is around 900 and thats for the crank, rods, pistions and its all balanced.. and depending on what connecting rods you want to go with you may have to clearance your block ( you should clearacn the block for both rods) but with the 5.7 inch rods you dont have to but you rev limit will be around 5500 to 6000 rpm. If you go with the 6.0 inch rods and clearance the block you can build more horsepower on that and spin up to 6500 to 7000 rpm. If you want a more reliable and streetable motor that runs good i would stick with the 350 with the .030 over bore and get 450 to 500 horsepower.. we achived that with a good set of bowtie cast iron heads with 220cc runners and 2.02 intake valves and 1.65 exhaust valves with the performer rpm air gap intake 750 carb and a solid roller lifter cam. IMO it would be easier and cheaper to stick with the 350.. its a less of a headache then having to clearance the block and shit.

Hope this helps you out with your decision.. if you want to know more or have any questions you can email me at ed-godin@hotmail.com

ok sorry man i didn't read your post all that carefully and never realized that you already had a good set of heads, carb and intake.. if you just throw in a really good solid lifter roller camshaft in that you should already be around 500hp .. so instead of spending a extra 1500 on parts and clearancing the block you spend 300 on the camshaft and have a 500hp motor

what he said.... when going with a stroker you lose a lot of cleaerance between the rods and the cam when in rotation.... causing you to have to clearance the rods which means rebalancing..... build a nice 350 and you wont regret it.....

ive also got a hydraulic roller cam that would work perfect with your set up.... (same exact thing i have in my 383). let me know if you are interested.... just need lifters and your set....

its custom ground on a small base circle so you shouldnt have to worry about clearance depending on rod choice....

and if its a street car, i wouldnt put a solid lift cam in it...... you will most likely have to adjust the valves anytime you rev over 5200 rpm...... or at least i did.... even with poly locks....

just build a 408.

no suprisingly with a solid lifter cam back a few years ago yeah you had to worry about re adjusting you valves because the clearances were so big.. but now with the new solid lifter roller cams the valve lash is alot closer so you dont get the annoying ticking and you only have to check them every 6 months or so according to the instruction that we got with the cam. solid lifter cams just make the motor rev a bit quicker and a bit more power.